Footless Noresund

Materials: Noresund, lumber

Description: The Noresund footboard was a bit too tall for our smallish bedroom, so we decided to remove it. Since the Noresund is a standalone bed structure (i.e. the sideboards rest on the footboard) we couldn't simply remove the footboard and call it done.

We had to build a new footboard entirely. Thankfully we still have wood left for projects like this one. We (well, my husband Andoni) used a 2x4 and a 2x8 for the new footboard, plus three metal pieces (one for each side and one for the middle) so the sideboards/rest of the bed'??s structure rest on those.

I thought about painting it black, but 1) No one's ever going to see it and 2) It's not like they'??re really going to match, so why bother?

We simply wanted to get rid of the footboard without cutting it up in case we ever get a bigger bedroom or want to sell the bed, but without having to spend any money on this project.

So, mission accomplished, I think. And just in case you're wondering why I really wanted to get rid of the footboard, there's a picture that might help explain it better (when the drawers are open the space is tight).

See more of the Noresund footboard.

~ Ainhoa Vega, Urduliz, Spain

Noresund bed goes modern

Materials: Noresund bed, iron saw, fabric for cover

Description: My Noresund bed was a little too romantic for me, so I decided to make it more modern.

1. Saw extra pieces away. That was hard! It took me about 3-4 hours, I wish I had had some powertools...

2. A lot of measuring and then cutting the fabric

3. Sewing was the easiest part :) I added little pink details to sides.


~ Eeva, Tampere, Finland

Rope Ain't just for Jumpin': Nautical Rope Table

Materials: NORESUND Table black-brown, rope, drill, tacky glue and hot glue

Description: Take the rickety design and turn it into a gorgeous new table.

Who could resist?

Here is how to make your own rope table:

What you will need:

table
drill
rope
tacky glue
glue gun
scissors
gloves as some rope will give you splinters (I chose sisal rope and it was great to work with)

First thing I did was drill a hole in the top of the table just large enough to get some rope through.

Tie a knot on the bottom of the table top to have a tight starting place for the rope. I glued my knot in place so it would remain taut during the process.

Start winding the rope slowly. You will need to use the hot glue on the first loop, after that use the tacky glue for majority of the project. The hot glue dries to fast, and you will need to work the rope with your hands to get it nice and tightly looped.

Keep winding. Use glue on every turn and make sure ropes are placed against each other tightly. I used a weight to hold the rope down so it laid flat during the process.

Wrap the rope to the edge of the table and one additional loop before you start the coil on the side of the table. This way, the table coils will flow smoothly.

I turned the table upside down to make sure the top would be flat while wrapping the last coil that overhangs the top. After that, get it good and dry before you start working on the sides, it just makes it easier. Start coiling up the sides. I used a clip to hold the rope while I was pulling along the sides. Wrap until you have exceeded the side of the table top.

When you have wrapped the whole side of the table you want to cut the rope and tuck it under. Preferably in the same spot that the coil started to overlap the table top.

Once tucked, use the hot glue to hold the rope end in place. I chose to add a bit of duct tape to make sure that it doesn't get loose. At this point, with the hot glue I looked over the table top edges and made sure that they were all tightly fitting. Adding a little hot glue to those places that looked a little loose.

Now, for the base, start with drilling the hole in the center of the small disc, tie a knot and start wrapping, continue the top of the disc and stop when you reach the top sides. No overhang on this part.

I had to up the hot glue usage at this point. I still used the tacky, but because of the wrap around the post, the glue needed to be dry fast. So, pulling hard, wrap once around the posts/legs and glue them. This first leg coil should be done the same height as the disc top. From there keep coiling tight and using hot glue on the leg areas. You should still be using the tacky glue on all the coils too.

At the end, and where the coil started wrapping downward, tuck the rope behind the coils and tuck into a space between the disc and the coils. Hot glue in place. Now use the hot glue to touch up any saggy or lose parts on this lower rope parts.

For more info on the hack, please follow the link to my blog.

~ shelby leni, San Diego, Ca

A comfy Noresund bed head

Materials: Noresund Bed and Bomull Curtains

Description: I have a Noresund Bed an I was tired always of having lots of pillows and quilts for my back, so I can read in bed without hurting my head on the metal frame.

The wood is fixed on the metal frame by cable connectors.

Then I measured the size for the eight pieces and cut the foam rubber in their size.

I cut the Bomull curtains to fit around the foam rubber and had another piece of square wood each.

Then I took one of the square wood piece, do the square foam rubber on it and covered it all with the fitting piece of the curtain. It's only fixed on the bed with a feltglide each.

Finished.

Reading in bed is much more comfortable now.

~ Tia, Germany