Materials: two IVAR (80x50x83) cabinets, one TORSBY (180x85) tabletop,three Gnosjo doors (60x92cm) 1 gnosjo door ( 50x92) one Gnosjo plinth , 16 L-Brackets, 4 mending plates , 8 legs (9cm high), a piece of pinewood of 20x50x1,5, and a piece MDF of 180x85 finished with aluminium edging tape from hardware store
Description: 1.- Paint the IVAR cabinets and the piece of pinewood with transparent white glaze that reveals the wood grain. 2.-Assemble two IVARs as instructed and mount four legs each onto the bottom walls. Leaving the doors unassembled, makes handling a bit easier. 3.- Put the two cabinets side by side, leaving a gap of 20cm in between.
4.- Attach the pinewood piece to the bottom of both cabinets to fill the gap using the 4 mending plates, forming a very useful shelf to store the trays. Now you have the island. 5.- Attach the 3 Gnosjo doors (60x92) to the back of the cabinets and the 50x92 door to the peninsula side opposite to the wall with the 16 L-brackets. 6.- Paint the mdf countertop in white and screw it to the top of the cabinets. Put the whole in place. 7.- Put the Torsby tabletop on it 8.- Saw the Gnosjo plinth to get a piece of 180x9cm ant glue it to the legs at the front part of the peninsula. 9.-Fix the peninsula to the wall and put the IVAR doors in place
Description: We had a horrible time with our pantry, we bought cheap shelves that didn't work so finally we decided to buy an Ikea kitchen, install it and build it such that it looked like a custom made butlers pantry.
We trimmed it out and added crown molding to make it appear as a built in and to give it a nice finish. I used 30" and 24" Akurum cabinets - 88" inches tall.
Description: We took down a wall between our kitchen and living room and created a room divider/island with Billy bookcases and Numerar butcher block countertop.
We covered the back of the bookcases with beadboard and trimmed the whole thing with moulding from a big box store.
We allowed the butcher block to hang over the back side, supported by corbels. We now have a bar height seating area. On the kitchen side, we've added lots of open shelf storage.
Description: When I were about to put up my kitchen fan in the corner of the kitchen, I soon discovered I needed a corner cabinet to mount it on, I began to build a custom made cabinet, just to hang the kitchen fan on. But I realized there were lots of space going to waste inside this "come to be, empty cabinet" And as it would be hanging a kitchen fan on the front of the cabinet, no door could be fitted to get access to it's inside. I didn't want one of those pull-out-under-the-cabinet-kitchen-fans as I wanted a retro feeling to the kitchen.
I then came up with my idea of hiding a spice rack inside the cabinet, a pull down spice rack to be precise. I rushed away to IKEA and got myself a standard kitchen drawer of 60cm width. Then my scheme of how to mount this began, I began drawing mechanisms of how it could be stowed away and still hold up a load of spice cans and bottles. I turned my head inside out and back again for about a week, then I finally got it!
Like an Eureka moment!
I got this old non working Honda civic hatchback in my yard, I ran out to it and dismounted the gas springs that held the rear window open to get access to the trunk, then I mounted the spring ends on the backside of the drawer in an A-shape and mounted the spring heads in the cabinet, in that way when pulling down the drawer the springs get compressed and line up horizontal behind the drawer.
This makes the drawer stay down and makes the springs push up once you push the drawer upwards and hold it up once fully closed, if the springs have the right pressure that is, mine needed 11kg of thrust to push them in individually. So theoretically it could hold up 22kg.
I've been using my hidden spice rack for about five years with not a single malfunction. It's a reliable construction.
Unfortunately I can't show the backside of the drawer and its construction, as it involves a major disassembly which I'm not willing to do. The ropes I added for looks, I've always loved mechanical things. So it's optional if you want them or not.
Materials: AKURUM Wall cab horizontal w glass door, birch, RAMSJÖ red-brown, PERFEKT RAMSJÖ Contoured deco strip, red-brown , a matching extra door same number as cabinets, L-Brackets from hardware store, Pencil, Level, 2 in screw, drill, miter saw or box, impact drill and hand saw.
Description: Ok first, the top and bottom panels of your cabinet frame has a lip on the back. Saw these lips off using a straight edge such as a 4 ft level. Attach the level using clamps. Saw the lips off to make an even flat backing. Now build your cabinet frame using all steps in the instructions but skip the first step of attaching the angle bracket for hanging the frame to the wall and where you nail the backing onto the frame. Remember you will not be hanging this to the wall.
Now sand the back of the frame because it will be a bit rough. Then I stained the back of the frame. I used a red mahogany stain as I had the red brown doors but use whatever will match your finish to touch up the back of your frame.
Now decide where you will hang your cabinet make sure to find the 2x4s in your soffit. Mark your placement. Now using those marks measure and cut your contour decor strip. I had two cabinets so I took the full measurement of the two cabinets to make my cuts on the decor strip.
You will be screwing your decor strip into the 2x4s of the soffit so drill guide holes. Your guide holes should be a bit smaller than your screw so your screws can grab the decor strip well. Also have a screw every 6 to 8 inches apart.
Now drill your decor strips to the 2x4s in your soffit. Now pre drill your cabinet the way you drilled your decor strip. A thicker diameter screw will work well and a metallic finish will look better than a normal black screw. Now with another person helping you (which I did not have. lol)
Match up the frame to the decor strips and drill that frame into the decor strip. Six screws work well 4 near each corner and 1 in the middle of the front and the back. That puppy should be in there good. Repeat the steps for multiple hanging cabinets and make the even with each other. Now install your doors.
You should have a cabinet with a door on one side and a open side. Install L brackets to your cabinet frame at the top and bottom about 5inches always from the left and right frames. Now have your helper hold your your door and make sure it is square with the cabinet.
The door will not be flush with any of the sides as it is 1/8 of an inch smaller on all sides. Do your best ;-) Now mark the holes from the L Bracket onto the door pre drill into the door where you made your marks. drill about 1/8 of an inch down. Now have your helper hold the door up, line up the holes and bam screw that extra door in place.
Now its time for your cover panel. Do this as normal. Look at the pics for reference on the panel. Well that's it folks this voids the warranty so make sure you mount this bad boy correct so that it doesn't fall and break all your stuff.
You will be out your plates or glasses and a cabinet. Hope this helps. Oh one last thing you can use any door as long as it is the same size as your front door.
Description: when I restyled my kitchen, I converted my BJURSTA table into a kitchen bench. But you can also make this for the hallway near to your wardrobe, easy to sit on while putting on your shoes. In that case the storage under can be used for other shoes.
- for this bench you need the 2 small 30/90 parts (to extend the table) - the four legs - all screws and construction parts - the construction between the tabletop and the legs. - some other screws and 4 metal corners
1. Unscrew the whole table. Use all screws and construction parts again.(Remember the construction of the legs to table top, because you have to do this again).
2. Take the 2 small table tops. Deconstruct all parts and use the table tops only.
3. Saw the legs to the height you want. Saw them from the bottom, because you need the construction on the top.
4. Saw the construction between the tabletop and the legs in the width of <30 cm.
5. On one side the 90 cm length will follow the construction as it was. You can use all screws and construction parts as it was.
6. On the other 90 cm side you have to carve a new slot in the construction between the table top and the legs. This is easy to make with a saw and a carve. You know what I mean when you deconstructed the table.
7. construct the other side.
8. Construct the table top on the construction. (follow the ikea instructions!)
9. Construct the legs.
10. Saw four corners out from the other small table top, in order to fit between the four legs.
11. You will need other screws and metal corners.
12. To finish the bench I used an unused wooden winerack and two wooden boxes.
Description: The pictures are a bit premature, we have no backsplash installed, but I was excited to share the outcome of this hack.
Problem: Ikea doesn't sell upper cabinets in the size we wanted. They either didn't come close enough to the window or too close, feeling boxed in.
Solution: Custom end cabinets made from Perfekt Ädel cover panels!
When we were planning our Ikea kitchen we ran into a problem with our upper cabinets. We had a choice to make; either they stopped 12" short of the window or they extended all of the way to the window sill, not leaving room for a cover panel, and even if a panel were to fit we thought it would look boxed in. Ikea sells a perfect 9" wide "Perfekt End Wall Unit" as either open shelves, box shelves, or wine shelves, in any color you want, as long as you want white, stainless, or birch. None of which come close to matching the medium brown of the rest of our kitchen.
So... I decided to make some of my own open shelved end units out of the normal cover panels used to finish the end of the shelves. The ones that Ikea sells have an interesting 3 faced shape, but when you cut MDF you get an unfinished edge that can't be stained. So, I had to be creative with my shapes, leading to the design shown in the pictures.
Each unit is composed of 3 panels. 1 for the long end against the cabinet, 1 for the back & shallow side, and 1 for the shelves. Each 39" panel yields 5 shelves, just enough.
Assembly was done prior to hanging. No 6 wood screws were used to assemble the shelves to the non-visible cabinet edge and back and 1/4" dowel pins and adhesive were used to attach the visible edges near the window. The shelves were hung in the same way as normal end panels are hung and reinforced using 2.5" cabinet screws just under the bottom shelve, screwed into a stud.
Tips & Lessons Learned:
Use a very high tooth count saw to ensure that the laminate layer doesn't splinter.
Still expect a few splintered bits and mistakes... budget and buy extra materials. I ended up using two extra panels. Once you get your 20% off the entire kitchen, anything you buy on a separate order doesn't qualify for the discount!
Ikea trim materials and cover panels have little bits of metal in them. They throw sparks and dull blades VERY quickly, yet you need a VERY sharp blade. Plan to replace your blade at least once.
It's hard to find a matching pen, but touchup pens can hide some sins. :-)
Wear a respirator mask. The trim pieces make a horrible burnt smelling smoke when cut.
Materials: Hackas cd tower and large survival/tobacco tins
Description: 1. Section each side of the bent ply wood tower appropriate to the height of the wall you intend to mount it on
2. Remove every other rung on the tower section.
3. Mount onto wall.
4. Apply printed labels to your tins. Use standard address labels, printing the name of the spice on both horizontally (which will display on the top of the tin) and vertically (which you'll fold over the edge so you can read easily once in the rack) and slit so the lid can be removed completely.
5. Slot the tins on the rungs. The same principal of the curvature of the ply supports the tins as supported the CDs.
6. Et voila! No more struggling to get a table spoon into the narrow neck of a spice jar or rummaging at the backs of cupboards. Everything nice and uniform and all at hand!
Materials: RIBBA picture ledge, GRUNDTAL rail, 4 short screws
Description: Take the GRUNDTAL rail and measure it up on the base of the RIBBA ledge so it's central.
Drill 4 pilot holes and then screw the rail to the ledge using quite short screws as they may pierce through the shelf base. (If shelf is above eye level, this shouldn't matter as this will be out of sight)
Mount RIBBA ledge to the wall as you normally would and you have the added benefit of hanging utensils from the rail :)
Materials: EKBY ÖSTEN/ EKBY MÅNS & 4 1/4 GRUNDTAL HOOKS
Description: Tiny kitchen problems.
My second most hated kitchen cupboard is the evil spot that semi stores all my pots and pans. My top most hated cupboard is the Tupperware one but we won't get into that now as I have not figured out a solution for that yet. Soooooooahh back on track to the pots and pans. All of which, mind you, have ended up smashing a toe of mine at one point or another while struggling to pull the right one out... not to mention trying to find its matching lid! Ugh.
Breathe DeAnn... BREATHE!
Ok so anyway, this Ikea hack is a wall pot hanger holder thingy with a shelf! I already had an old (28in - 48in) curtain rod from my move that I could no longer use so when I saw the EKBY MANS shelf brackets, I just knew that I could slide my rod through the holes in their design under the shelf and hang pots from it!
Materials: 4 2x2 Expedits, 8 Capita legs (11cm), drawer- and door-inserts to taste, Panyl covers for inserts (optional), screws and 4 mending plates
Description: My kitchen has virtually no storage space, so I needed something to extend the kitchen area outward and give me lots of storage. I also wanted more work-top area and bring some color to the monochrome kitchen.
The original idea (which you can see in the sketch in the photos) was more complicated and contained an actual work-top, which doesn't work with drawers below the work-top. If someone wanted to build this without the drawers though, building it the way I sketched it would also let it be used as a breakfast-bar.
The build itself is quite simple and doesn't require any special tools, except possibly for some pliers.
Assemble two Expedits as instructed and mount four capita legs each onto the bottom walls. Note the orientation, the long walls of the Expedits become the top and the bottom wall.
Depending on preference, work-top height or other factors, other legs than the 11cm capita legs can of course be used.
Assemble the other two Expedits as can be seen on the pictures, using only one of the short boards and leaving the bottom open. I used the two unused wooden pins for extra stability between the short and the long separating board, shortening the pins using pliers so they don't stick out of the long board.
Finally the open sides of the unfinished Expedits go on top of the complete ones, using mending plates to fix them to one another. I moved the top Expedits back halfway of the depth, simply because that made everything line up with my kitchen.
In my case the two (now 2x4 big) Expedits are not fixed to each other which makes handling a bit easier, but they could of course easily be.
Finish up by putting in the inserts and make everything colorful with Panyl covers. One nice final touch would be to cover up the mending plates, but I haven't gotten to that yet.
Materials: IKEA cabinet of unknown name, 1/4" X 1 1/2" wood, 1/2" X 1 3/4" wood, 3/4" X 2 1/2" wood, wood glue, some hinges, hacksaw
Description: I started with this kitchen storage cabinet from IKEA, whose name I don't know. The top was originally a single piece which was much wider than the base, overhanging in a way that always made it a bit awkward to place in the kitchen.
After some time, I decided to cut off the extending portion, but I didn't want to lose the 'counter' space it provided. So, I patched up the cut ends, screwed them back together with hinges, and added a support which slides in and out of the unit to either allow the extension to hang down, taking up less space, or stay up, providing the counter space occasionally needed.
The top is made of two layers of a thin paperboard with a paper honeycomb structure sandwiched between them. After cutting the extension off, I had to do something to hide the hollow top. I glued some 1/4" thin wood strips to each of the cut ends. I unfortunately used a wood that didn't quite match the finish of the cabinet - with some searching, I'm sure a better match could be found.
Using a couple of hinges, I connected the two pieces back together, minimizing the gap between them at the 'flat' position.
Next came the sliding support that would slide in and out of the base cabinet. It's shape is a long, narrow rectangle - two strong pieces of 3/4" thick by 2 1/2" wide wood connected at the inside end (the end that would be hidden inside the base cabinet) with some of the same wood, and on the outside end with a piece of 1 3/4" wood. I carved a groove in the outside end piece, forming a handle to make it easy to pull out the support with one hand.
Once this was built, I cut grooves in the base cabinet where the support would slide, centering them nicely and being careful to make them exactly 3/4" deep (matching the thickness of the slide) depth, so that the hinged end piece would stay up tightly when extended. With the grooves cut and the slide put in place, the top went back on.
Finally, I built a small support to hold up the long slide when retracted, and which also serves as a stop preventing the slide from pulling out too far. It also keeps the slide aligned, so that it slides in and out smoothly. It's mounted to the underside of the cabinet top, using a couple of screws mated to keyholes I cut in the thin top material.
It's not the prettiest looking thing, but try as I might, I haven't been able to find something better looking that matches the functionality this provides, and which also has the perfect dimensions for whichever kitchen I put it in (3 so far). I plan to make a sort of slip cover, maybe with a zippered front, to hide the contents and hopefully give it a better look.
Materials: Varde glass door wall cabinet, standard Ikea base cabinets & Ekby Bjarnum wall shelves
Description: We were looking for a built in storage unit/appliance garage to store all of our small counter-top appliances. The problems we were facing were:
1) Cost...highly expensive to have custom built 2) Availability...we could find roller door cabinetry but most was too shallow to house our large kitchen aid mixer and Magimix...so
IKEA to the rescue. We wanted all of the clutter HIDDEN and we wanted something that looked custom built to fit the space.
Our first step was to hire an electrician to wire outlets on the wall to suit our needs for multiple appliances. We were then able to custom fit 3 Varde wall cabinets on top of ikea lower cabinetry. The bottom Varde wall unit sits on top of an Ikea white Pragel countertop. The main hack is here...the bottom support of the Varde wall unit is omitted and the cabinet simply sits on top of the counter top and voila, appliance storage extraordinaire!
To make the unit look more built-in we added 4 Ekby Bjarnum shelves along the left side. We had to cut them down to fit the space.
We finished off the project by siliconing the edges for a clean and professional look.
We absolutely love the clean lines and fresh look of this appliance garage. The amount it holds is unbelievable. We were quoted anywhere from $7-12,000 to have something similar built. We did this ourselves basically over a weekend for about $1500.
The only negative would have to be that the door hinges don't allow the door to go up quite as high as we would like. It is still a functional unit, you just wouldn't want to stand and food process or blend all day as access to the appliances isn't perfect. In retrospect we would have also done some custom lighting under the lower appliance garage and under the 4 shelves. Hmmm maybe it's not finished yet?!
Description: Well my mother's birthday has rolled around again. 81 and she didn't have a proper spice rack (and really needs one) So her enterprising young son did some Ikea Hacking with an Ikea Ribba Frame, some peg board and some wire peg board shelves. First I cut the peg board to size, gave it a couple of applications of yellow spray paint and mounted it in the frame with glass removed. Then I hung the the wire shelves on it.
Description: Installed tip out sponge soap drawer under sink cabinet by using a kick plate from center top to bottom to connect the tip out drawer hardware (hinges). ..since Ikea did not offer this tip out drawer for soap and sponges which I really wanted.
My husband figured out how to get them in for me because he loves me. I got the hardware and trays at a local home improvement store. Also sold online (example Rev-A-Shelf Sink Cabinet Tip-Out Soap Trays ).
Materials: Tarva dresser, new legs, paint, wood boards for top
Description: Using a Tarva dresser as a blank canvas. We first replaced the legs with curvy new legs from Home Depot. We painted and distressed the dresser with chalk paint. And then we placed new distressed stained wood boards in various widths next to one another as a new top.
