DIY Fauxdenza from Ikea Kitchen Cabinets

Materials: Akurum Wall Cabinets, Applad Doors, Birch Plywood, Walnut Stain

Description: I wanted a streamlined, and narrow solution for my media center. I have seen fake, floating credenzas on the web (dubbed a "fauxdenza") and decided to give it a try!

The 13" depth of the kitchen cabinets was perfect for my awkward space, and the kitchen storage was just what I needed to hide all of my DVDs and components!

I mounted the Akurum wall cabinets about 8 inches above the floor, so that the credenza was floating off the floor. Since the kitchen wall cabinets are not meant to be seen from above, I used birch plywood (edges veneered and stained in a dark walnut) to wrap the top and sides of the cabinets, to both hide the screws, and to add a natural element to the sleek white cabinet doors.

I did this entire project all by myself, and it took me about 4 hours total. If I had had someone helping me, this could have easily been done in 2 hours or so.

Total cost was around $300! I am more than thrilled with the outcome! :)

See more of the AKURUM fauxdenza.

~ Shannon Wiemann, Tampa, FL

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Give a little chic storage to the Pallbo footstool

Materials: SOLSTA PALLBO footstool, candle holders (4), screws (4), jigsaw, polisher, plywood, upholstery foam, lining, stapler, textile, sewing machine

Description: I took the footstool apart and turned it upside down. I drilled four holes on the bottom and screwed in the candle holders. I sawed the new top from plywood, and I polished the edges a bit.
I covered the sides and the top separately with the foam and the lining fixing them with a stapler.

Then I upholstered these items with textile with the stapler again, and sewed where needed (e.g. at the sides).

Now the new footstool doubles as a storage item for magazines or a soft throw.

See more of the madeover Solsta Pallbo.

~ Judit, Budapest

Bye Bye Bricks - a magnetic cover up

before

Materials: Spontan Magnet Boards, plywood, screws, rare earth magnets

Description: We were tired of looking at the original brick fire place in our main living space. The open fire box was changed into a gas insert many years ago and the room has been painted over 4 times, but the brick work remained.

As the brick work has to be maintained without being permanently altered, tiling it over and painting it over weren't viable options. Another idea was to add wood panels over but there is a safety concern.

An inspiration struck when we repainted another room and needed to take down the older style Ikea magnet boards in that room. The boards appeared to be the perfect candidate to be used as the cladding panels over the brick fire place.

I then devised and designed the plywood under structure to support the Spontan boards and in order to secure them to the frame, I made cleats with embedded rare-earth magnets.

Please see the result via the steps and photos.

1) Made the 2 vertical supporting pilaster frames out of 3/4" thick plywood. Each frame was tailored to the pilaster and friction fitted over it. 3 screws were screwed into the inside of the frame, with the shaft of the screws just penetrating in between the vertical brick mortar joints. The screws added security.

2) 4"h Horizontal cross bars (t-shape to add rigidity) were mounted to the vertical frames in 3 positions. At the very top, middle and lower portion to support the horizontal joints of the boards. The lower cross bar was placed well above the fire box.

3) Side frames were added to either side of the fire box. The plywood was positioned beside the brick surround of the fire box. There is no plywood in any direct or adjacent contact to any of the fire box metal frame

4) The Spontan boards come with keyslot mounting holes in the back but were only meant to be hung from the top. It did not suit my requirements so I made plywood cleats 1.5"h (fitted between the folded in edges of the Spontan). The cleats were drilled for 1/2" diameter rare-earth magnets, where were glued in with PL400 Construction adhesive. The glue has to cure for 24 hours before using.

5) Using a long level, I drew the first line at the top of the frame. Allowing for the thickness of the Spontan, to the ceiling in the center, I screwed the cleats in one row. Each cleat was spaced from the next one by 2". Each board required 2 cleats - top and bottom. There was some fiddling around of the cleats to ensure that each board was tight to the adjacent one.

6) Once the top row of boards was established, I secured the second set of cleats. For the exact spacing between the boards vertically, I used a 12" long steel ruler (which was just shy of the thickness of the Spontan. To get the correct thickness, 2 layers of masking tape were added to the ruler). Working sequentially, the second set of top cleats were mounted with screws). The best method was to mound each top cleat, put on the board to see the alignment. If slightly off, then re-mount the cleat until perfectly aligned. Once the top row of cleats was all positioned, then do the bottom cleats.

7) Two rows of boards were mounted. For our fire place, serendipitously, the Spontan boards worked out perfectly. 2 boards wide equalled to exactly to width of the fire box. The two lengths also exactly reached from the ceiling to the top of the fire box.

8) Besides the fire box, modification was required to fit the boards. I made the necessary cuts and notches using my 7-1/4" circular saw fitted with a Metal
Cutoff blade. Be sure to wear all safety gear as it creates a lot of noise, sparks and odour.

9) The modified boards were mounted with the cleats and the same method.

10) for the hearth, I was going to use the same Spontan but just happened to have some surplus veneered shelves from another source so that was used to cover the hearth bricks.

11) Finally, I again used an aluminum cabinet hanging cleat from another source to frame the inside opening of the fire box.

The end result completely transformed the room and covered up the eyesore of a tired looking brickwork.

The added bonus is that the entire Spontan cladding now acts as a giant radiator panel to distribute the heat from the fire box, so the fire does not need to be turned up high.

This is not recommended over a wood burning fireplace.

Thank you,

~ Peter, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada

Karlstad Sofa Gets Retro Update

Materials: Sofa, Karlstad cushion, tapered screw in legs, upholsterer's twine, upholsterer's needle, 32 buttons

Description: First, we replaced the Ikea sofa legs with ready made, screw-in replacement legs from Uncle Bob's workshop. We, then had an upholsterer use an extra Karlstad throw pillow as fabric to cover 32 buttons. He also sold us an upholsterer's needle.

After deciding where I wanted the buttons to be on each side of the two back sofa cushions (8 on each side per cushion) with a tape measure and light pencil mark, I began tufting using this tutorial.




This method makes only two holes in the cushion fabric per button pair. Twine is threaded through one button, then folded in half and both ends are threaded through the needle. The needle is pressed straight through the cushion from one pencil mark to the corresponding mark on the other side. Another button is then threaded on one end of twine. Then, both ends are brought together to tie a slide knot that allowed me to adjust the space between the buttons. This requires at least 20 inches of twine per button pair for gripping.

Don't be afraid to really pull the buttons close together. After drawing them together with the slide knot, I tied a couple of extra knots and left the twine ends hanging until I had finished the entire pillow and was sure the tufts were all uniform. The ends were then snipped and tucked under the buttons.

See more of the tufted Karlstad.

~ Michelle Carter, Texas

 

Remote storage LACK table

Materials: 2pcs of $7.99 Lack side table, 1 set 20" ball bearing sliding rails

Description:
1. Cut the top layer of 1 Lack table
2. Remove honeycomb layer

3. Push the top layer piece to the bottom
4. Mount side rails

5. Attach upper table top to the modified one
6. Add legs

~KeiDesign, CA

Besta Vara coffee table

Materials: 1 Lack Table, 1 Besta Vara Door 60 x 64 Any Colour, 4 wooden dowels, wood glue.

Description: I wanted a coffee table to match the bookcases I'm planning on getting from the Besta range.

So I started thinking of a hack for one.

First take the Lack table top and drill through the pre-drilled holes so they go all the way through the top of the table top.

Then assemble the Lack table as normal but put the table top on upside down.

Next mark off the table legs on the door and drill holes being careful not to drill through the other side.

Then drill holes in the top of the legs drilling downwards and put a dowel in each.

Next apply glue generously to the tops of the legs around the dowels.

Then put glue in the holes on the door and put the top on making sure the dowels are all in the holes on the door.

I did this with a turquoise grey door.

~ Em, Manchester UK

Entertainment center with fireplace

Materials: Tidaholm kitchen cabinets, Metrik handles, solid oak hardwood flooring, ethanol fireplace insert, metal studs, drywall, glass tile

Description: First we built the toe kick for the cabinets out of 1x3 fir.

We used 30x15x24 IKEA cabinets. We only wanted the finished cabinets to be about 18-20 inches deep, so we cut off about 2-3 inches off the backs of the cabinets after they were assembled. Then we set them onto the toe kick and secured everything.

Next we built a bump-out out of metal studs that would house our ethanol fireplace insert.

We were going to clad the fireplace in glass tile, so we spent quite a bit of time calculating where the studs should sit so that after drywall the width and height would add up to the exact with of our 1x2 inch glass tile with 1x1 inch glass tile that would fill in the end of each row.

For a table top we used 3/4 inch solid oak flooring planks on top of sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, then finished the edge with a 1x2 oak piece which makes the table top look extra thick.

We got the Tidaholm cabinet doors when they were being cleared out at 20% off.

Then we had someone come tile it and build a mantel out of a couple of pieces of 1x3 and 1x4 oak. Then I stained the table top and mantel. I used Minwax Ebony stain - 4 layers before it matched the Tidaholm finish. Then two coats of satin poly, For the inside of the fireplace, I mixed drywall mud, fine sand and dark gray paint and troweled it on.

See more of the Tidaholm kitchen cabinet with fireplace.

~ K @ Shift Ctrl ART

Mirrored Mosaic Coffee Table

Materials: Don't know Ikea model name, mirror, glass, putty knife, grout, mastic

Description: I bought an Ikea coffee table at a garage sale for $25. At the same time, I purchased some glass 'seconds' for $1/ pound. These were free-form, poured glass with small copper wire hangers embedded. I snipped off any external wire. There was also some broken mirror in the $1/pound bin so I bought that too. I ended up spending about $20 more on thick mirror from craigslist.

I gave the tabletop a light sand. Before starting a project with clear glass, you may want to paint the surface the same color as the mastic you will use. As it dries, it will shrink and the surface color below will be seen. I don�??t mind this cracked effect, but others might. Next, I laid out the poured glass pieces. I didn't quite have enough to go all the way to the edge so I recessed them about an inch. I also included flattened glass balls from craft shops (for vases and such) where each blob met.

Once I liked the layout, I used premixed mastic (aka thinset mortar) to put them in place. You simply 'butter' the back of each piece and squish it flat to the table. Remove any that squeezes out before it hardens. Next I started with the mirror. I used a simple glass scorer from a craft store and a pair of glass cutters to break and cut the mirror. I held the pieces in a cardboard box as I cut so any little chips would be caught by the box. Safety glasses are recommended. One piece at a time, like building your own puzzle, and soon it is done.

This project took several days the way I did it, but if you have a regular sized surface and uniform tiles, it can go pretty fast. Also, I was able to pry up and re-position some pieces even after the mastic had dried. Just scrape it off and start again. Before grouting, clean as much visible mastic off the project as possible. A little warm water and a dishtowel work well.

Once everything is down and set it is time for grout. For this project, I used premixed, sanded grout but I wouldn't recommend it. The premix has some kind of additive that makes it kind of tacky and clean up is much harder than with regular grout. Since the poured glass pieces didn't go all the way to the edge, I used my finger to finish the outer edge of grout.

I decided to paint the outer edge of the table top a blue to match the glass, but left the legs the original color.
Ta-dah!

Table: $25
Material: $25
Tools: $17
TOTAL for "??New Table": $67 and a few weeks worth of evenings.

~ Anne Howley, Redmond, Wa

Reupholstered Ikea Strandmon chair and painted frame

Materials: UNG DRILL oval black Frame and STRANDMON wing chair &footrest

Description: The Ikea chair was reupholstered in white leather with a silver studded trim.

The footrest was reupholstered with chevron zigzag material i bought from amazon.

The Ikea frame was painted in white (3 coats) and then given a gloss finish (1 coat of spray).

The Oleg (deer head) was purchased from WhiteFauxTaxidermy on Etsy.

The printed cushion is inspired by vintage Egyptian movie posters of the 1950's and I bought from mishmaoul.com

the black & white coushin is from Ikea (last season's so it was discounted).

The white sheepskin Rug is also from Ikea (LUDDE)

And finally the decorative dog was from a local store.

~ nawwarah82, Saudi Arabia

EXPEDIT LACK Rolling Storage Coffee Table

Materials: LACK coffee table top, 2X2 EXPEDIT, square VIKA AMON(?) table top, EXPEDIT Wheels, Steel Wire, Gate Hinges

Description: We are always in need of extra storage space in our tiny apartment. We had an existing LACK coffee table that we were going to trash when we found a replacement. After looking at the dimensions of the LACK and the 2X2 EXPEDIT, I decided to make a trip to the local IKEA. In the as is section, I found a white square desktop (VIKA AMON?) that looked to be roughly the same size as the EXPEDIT.

Using the brackets for mounting the EXPEDIT to a wall, the square desktop was mounted to the EXPEDIT. The hinges were screwed into the side of the LACK. Then using the bolts for the EXPEDIT, the hinge was attached.

A left over bracket from the LACK was used to attach a length of wire to the inside of the LACK lid, with the other end strung through the EXPEDIT bracket.

Wheels centred on each edge of the square desktop underneath... and now we have an Rolling LACK EXPEDIT coffee table with storage.

See more of the Lack Expedit coffee table with storage.

~ Cameron Rhodes, Calgary

Vika Amon, Hacked

Materials: Vika Amon and Capita Legs

Description: Step 1: Search tirelessly over the internet for a coffee table that will be just right for your space.

Step 2:Fail at step 1

Step 3:Browse Ikea countertops looking for a nice wood selection.

Step 4: Browse legs and determine that straight legs are boring.

Step 5: Notice the Vika Amon table top is 1/4 the price of the counter tops.

Step 6: Uniquely marry the Viko Amon Table top and the slanted Capita legs into a unique coffee table.

When joining the legs, drill a hole straight through the bottom table top.

The thickness of the table pairs perfectly with the length of the "ready-rod" which allows you to sandwich the bottom shelf by joining the legs together through the shelf. Don't over tighten as you might scratch the table top, or if you drilled in an area without backing, crack it even.

I recommend drilling where there is backing, but in order to get a funky look you may have to offset it a bit.

~ Shane, Vancouver Canada

Granas gone rustic

Materials: Ikea granas table, applaro patio, glue gun, skill saw

Description: I went to ikea as-is to find a computer chair and ended up stumbling upon 2 pieces from a patio chair, being only $1.90cad.

I have an old Granas table in my living room, and the gel in between the glass and the metal was starting to fade. I decided it was time to spice things up a bit.

Before

I took the glass off the table, and then proceeded to measure it out to fit the coffee table. Surprisingly it was the perfect width, but the ends were a bit too long, so a skill saw was used.

Bit of sanding, and a hot glue gun allowed for this to be the finished product.

~ cody, toronto

Lack doesn't lack!

Photo: IKEA.com

Materials: Hack Shelves x2 , three 2'x1.5"x.75" Wood Bars, Screws, 1 6'x.5"x1.5" Wood Beam

Description: For a fun little project....

Take some Ikea wall mount shelves (from the Lack series, you will need two of them), turn the brackets vertical, add three or four reinforcing bars, and leave a small reveal between the two shelves.


In the reveal you can add your own accent element (in this case it was a small red beam). Congratulations, you have successfully made Ikea shelves into a swanky coffee table.

See more of the swanky Lack coffee table and drawings of the assembly method. (link updated, July 31, 2012)

~ Matthias, Brooklyn

Four Lack table base coffee table

Materials: Lack side tables, piece of Pragel, flower pot, glass top

Description: What I've tried with this hack is to copy a square coffee table that I've seen in shops but that is way too expensive for me (around 1.000 euro with the size and the glossy white finish I want). Its design is minimalist: a glass top resting on a wooden cube. The cube is placed in the center of a thick square 110x110 cm. board that acts as the table base.

I've used 4 Ikea LACK side tables for the base and screwed below a piece of PRAGEL counter top to reinforce the structure. This is the final result, with a total cost of around 250 euro.

These are the steps I followed to build the table:

Step 1
Bought 4 Ikea LACK side tables. I got the glossy version, that is three times more expensive than non-gloss, but even so they were cheap (13 euro each). I set the four boards of the tables forming a square and joined them with tape. Screwed them underneath in pairs with four small metal sheets. Warning: LACK tables are mostly hollow, so you have to ensure that screws go through not-hollow areas. Now I had a square base of 110x110 cms and 5 cm thick, ideal for the looks of the table.

Step 2
The original table is supported by four wheels, but I preferred a more stable approach for my base. So I glued below the base a piece of PRAGEL counter top table that I bought in the as-is Ikea section. This way, the LACK tables are 3.8 cm elevated from the floor, and strongly fixed together. I used general-purpose mounting adhesive and 4 screws to fix the LACKs to the counter top.

Step 3
Now I had to make the wooden cube. To keep proportions, the dimensions of the cube had to be around 25 cm. of side. So I bought in a DIY store (Leroy Merlin) this 26cms flower pot.

I filled the pot with wood pieces 25 cm. long, glueing them with mounting adhesive, to make the cube solid enough to support the weight of the glass.

Step 4
I attached the cube to the structure with mounting adhesive and 4 long screws going from below through the PRAGEL table top and the LACK tables, screwing into the cube's inner wood.

Step 5
Now I turned the table to its final position, to glue the glass top to the cube. I ordered a 110x110 cm glass 1 cm. thick, with rounded corners. The cost was 135 euro, therefore the glass has been by far the most expensive part of this 250 euro hack. I used mounting adhesive specific for glass surfaces, mirrors and the like.

It took several days for the adhesive to dry out.

Step 6
To make the top embellisher (to hide the adhesive showing through the glass), I cut a square of thin wood 27 cms. on each side. I painted it glossy-white, and attached it to the glass with double sided tape.

Step 7
Final look of the table

Note: Initially, my plan was to order the glass with some holes in the center to be able to screw it to the cube, but the the guy from the glass shop advised against it saying that the holes would seriously weaken the glass.

Before starting to use the table, I wasn't too sure about the stability, being the top glass just glued to the rest of the structure.

But now that we've been using it for a month (the normal use of a coffee table, placing drinks, some bowls with food, dishes, bottles...not too heavy stuff) I can tell that the glass hasn't moved at all and so far it has worked fine.

~ Claudia G.