Hacked Japanese panels for custom-made

Materials: 2 rolls Anno Inez, 3m * 60cm ; 2 rolls Anno Sanela, beige, 3m * 60cm ; 2 thin rods ; 2 swivel rods ; 1 sewing machine, white angledozer, white satin ribbon and white wire

Description: I really wanted the signs for my Japanese Anno Inez French window overlooking the street, hiding for their character and bright. Except that the leaf of the doors are narrower than the panels and I did not use the rail system Kvartal, too expensive for my taste. To maximize the window, the panels will be Japanese Anno Sanela mounted on swivel rods.

Step 1: Measure the window and cut the panels to Japanese Anno Inez corresponding height and width.
Step 2: Sew the angledozer around the panels Anno Inez tailored so that the fabric does not fray.
Step 3: Sew the ribbon to white satin ribbon around the thin rod. Finishes fixing sewing a button.
Step 4: Place the thin rod on window casements. Follow the signs to the window opening, no need to slide the curtains ;)
Step 5: Place the swivel rods in corners of the doors.
Step 6: Cut the Japanese Anno Sanela panels to length and sew the hems (the top one to host the rotating rod). Slide the panels to swivel rods and enjoy!

See more of the Japanese panels.

~ C�cile, France

Classic grasscloth headboard

Materials: Hemnes queen bed frame, Anno Sanela blind, pre-finished polystyrene molding, liquid nails, saw and miter box, and clamps

Description: We bought the Hemnes bedroom furniture suite but recently started feeling tired of the baby crib-like bars at the top of the headboard, especially since that's all we could see of the headboard once all of the bed pillows were in place. We wanted to maintain the classic and clean lines of footboard and nightstands without adding a lot of weight or taking apart the bedframe. We found our solution with the Anno Sanela blind at Ikea, it was light, large enough to cover the headboard, stiff enough to hold its shape without wrinkling, and had a great seagrass texture that completed our bedding.

1. We bought 2 pieces of 3" x 8' pre-finished molding that were a little fancy and 1 1" x 8' strip for to finish the bottom. The advantage with a polystyrene molding is that is very light so all you need is glue and it is prefinished to almost the same finish as the rest of the bed so you don't have to paint.

2. The molding was cut to spec with a miter saw so it fits right over the existing headboard. Tip: for each side piece cut long enough to it can rest on the horizontal for more strength.

3. Spread glue on the bedframe where the 3" wide molding will go. Make sure the glue that you use will give you time make adjustments before setting. There is no need to glue more than the edges, but you could just make sure that any glue that squeezes through the Anno Sanela can be sponged off and will dry clear.

4. The width of the Anno Sanela is perfect for this project, just make sure that the length is short enough so that only overlaps about a 1/2" of the glue (see picture). This way the molding gets the other half of the glue and finishes the edge of the Anno Sanela. Clamp everything and leave to dry. Tip: the Anno Sanela is slightly transparent so you might want to back it with some blackout material before mounting it. I realized this after the fact but it's not a big deal to me.

5. To finish the bottom, spread glue on the 1" molding and press into place. Clamps can't be used here but it is light enough that strips of painters tape is enough to hold it in place until it dries. The bottom of the molding should just kiss the top of the mattress.

6. Fill the corners where the mitered molding cuts meet with silicone caulk. I also filled the seam in the back where the top piece meets the original bed frame for strength.

This was such a simple update and we're thrilled with the results. We even used some of the leftover material to top the nightstands.

~ Felicia, Seattle, USA