Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Materials: Portis Shoe Rack, Hacksaw, Metal repair resin
Description: I though shortening the Portis shoe rack was going to be a simple hacksaw job but it turned out a little more complex.
Saw the bars to length and don't throw the offcuts just yet.
Find the four offcuts that have a nut in the end. Use a piece of scrap metal to drive the nut a little further into the bar. You can now cut off the rolled over end of the bar without damaging the nuts. Drive the nut back in the other direction and it will pop out the end of the bar. Repeat for the other 3.
Locate the 4 bars that have a nut in one end. Hammer a nut into the end of each of these. Use metal repair resin to secure. Clean out any resin that gets into the screw threads before it dries.
Assemble as per the instructions and you have successfully shortened the Portis Shoe Rack.
See more of how to shorten the Portis.
~ Andy from Workshopshed, London
2 Ikea Lobbo Shades, 6" diameter = $6
1 Ikea Lobbo Shade, 12" diameter = $5
1 Ikea Lobbo Shade, 14" diameter = $6
1 yard Ikea Fabric = $8
1 pendant light kit = $12
small chain link = $1.50
Glue gun, scissors, needle-nose pliers
TOTAL: about $40
1) DESIGN YOUR TIER STRUCTURE
Decide how you want the tiers to overlap. Make sure your tiers don't overlap too much (or you'll just be limiting how much light gets through the multiple layers), but enough to not show gaps. If your tiers are similar in diameter (like the 12" and 14"), you can get away with about a 2" overlap. If your tiers are further apart in diameter (like the 6" and 12") you may want more like a 4" overlap. You can also trim off the top or bottom of each tier to adjust the overall shape. I cut off a little bit at a time, and used soup cans/boxes/whatever to prop the shades up around each other so I could see how the finished product would look.
2) COVER THE SHADES
I cut the fabric an inch taller and wider than the shade, then glued it in place with a glue gun. The Ikea shades require the frame spokes to poke through the shade and little hardware pieces screw on and hold it in place. Which is why I picked a patterned fabric so you don't really notice the hardware, but I guess you could paint them to match your fabric so they blend in. I'm far too lazy for that. After you glue the fabric, you'll need to poke holes in the fabric that line up with the holes in the shade in order to attach your frame.
3) PUT THE TIERS TOGETHER
Finally, you've got get your tiers to stay in place. I used small linked chain from Home Depot, they sell it by the foot or the yard. Here's where the spoke frame actually comes in handy. Slide one link of each chain strand onto each spoke before you put the spoke through the shade and screw on the fastener. Then just cut each length to the same number of links and use it to attach each tier to each other.
4) INSERT THE PENDANT LIGHT
And you're done!
See more if the Drum Shade Pendant Light.
~ Molly O'Shea, Encinitas
Materials: Nine HEAT trivers, thin bars of wood, two screw hooks
Description: I had needed a notice board for a long time but did not like the look of the most of I've seen on sale. One night I was just falling asleep when I got an idea: I'll make the notice board using the round IKEA trivets.
I bought three packets of HEAT-trivet, attached two hooks to wood bars I had lying around and hot-glued them to the back of the trivets. Done! It works and I love it!
See more of the Heat notice board.
~ Ilka, Helsinki, Finland
Materials: 3 Trofast, 1 Trofast lid, 1 placemat, silicone brush, silicone tongs, a strainer, big diameter drill bit
Description: I needed a worm bin to make compost indoors.
It has to be 3 layers: Top is for food, Middle is a catch tank for the droppings and the bottom layer is for all the water from the process. I suppose you can use 2 bins, but I found that I needed a mid layer. The worms like to go down and fall into the lower sections just for fun. There are 4-5 holes, 1/4 inch diameter drilled in top and middle Trofast.
The top bin is where the food, worms and shredded paper go. I do not fill it to the top, the more space there is for air, the better. The 1 hole + about 4 inches of air space is enough for the worms. Lots of DIY sites say you have to drill many holes in your bin for vents, I don't.
I drill holes for drainage, on the bottom. I use the placemat to put the bins down on when they are unstacked. They have worm poop on them. The worm travel down to the mid layer.
The mid layer is worm party central. There is no food here, just worms and castings. I have to empty this out and I do it with a silicone brush- easy to clean and soft like the worms. They get brushed out of there and put back on the top layer.
The bottom catches errant worms and water. This is where the strainer comes in. I pour the wormy water through a strainer into a pitcher. Then I toss the worms back in the bin and water my plants with the water. The tongs are used for turning the compost and mixing in shredded paper.
Plant savers and dirt movers, the Ikea blue bag
Materials: Ikea blue shopping bags
Description: We were having our fence rebuilt and the digging of dirt yielded a huge pile of dirt. To be able to move this dirt I used the Ikea blue bags. It needed to go from backyard to front yard.
During the process, we bought new plants and in order to keep them from drying out, I planted them in the dirt bags until they can go in the ground and they are doing well.
I move plants around a lot and these bags are large enough to fit a small tree and its roots, and keep them from completely drying up and dying.
They are good for yard waste as a heavy duty bag, I can collect things and out them in the waste bin.
Also take a look at my hack for other gardening ideas.
~ Ninjarita, Minneapolis
Monday, 30 May 2011
Materials: 3 Lillangen bathroom cabinets, 1 Lilliangen base, mending platesDescription: The Ikea had Lilliangen on clearance, so each cabinet was $50 and the base was $25. This was the perfect size and height for many applications around my house. I used it for a tall cabinet in my office area, I thought it would be perfect for the dining room as a bar or china cabinet too. Using 3 cabinets stacked vertically with mending plates on the inside, I was able to make a light and airy cabinet. The top is a piece of shelf from the discontinued Ikea kitchen series, these were $1 apiece.
The shelves are adjustable. I was thinking of making a pull-out drawer in the middle section because it's perfect for a desk.
There is no backside to the shelf, so light gets in from the wall reflection. I was thinking about using this as a plant cabinet so the cats wouldn't attack my plants, and they could have light. I was also thinking of using this cabinet in my vintage Silver Streak trailer, it's aluminum and the trim matches. The cabinet is very light weight, each might be only 30lbs, so unlike all the other Ikea cabinets, I can carry this by myself. It also is a very small box and can fit into a VW Golf trunk. Here is the cabinet in its normal bathroom application.
~ Ninjarita, Minneapolis
Materials: Tertial Lamp
Description: The first step to making a microphone stand from the Tertial Lamp was to remove the light fixture. I tried to figure out how to remove the light so that I could still use it, but instead I had to cut the cord and pull it out of the boom arm.
I then unscrewed the lamp fixture from the arm and put aside all the hardware.
I removed the microphone and shock mount from the stand it came with and tried to put it onto the boom arm. The plastic spacer from the lamp was too thick to fit the microphone, so I had to file it down so that it was thin enough to fit between the shock mount and the lamp stand.
Once the spacer was thin enough I attached the shock mount to the lamp stand using the bolt and nut that used to hold in the lamp head. I then used cable ties to attach the microphone cable to the stand (not visible in the photos).
The stock hardware that comes with the Tertial lamp isn't strong enough to hold the stand straight when I extend the lamp arm. My next step will be to buy new hardware for the lamp arm so that it can support my microphone and shock mount.
See more of the Tertial mic stand.
~ Bill Hutchison, Canada
Materials: (1) Ikea Ekby Statlig wall shelf 47 7/8x11", (4) Ikea Vika Moliden legs, (16) screws, Minwax Wood Stain, Minwax Polycrylic, (1) 2" synthetic brush, and a power drill.
First, I screwed on the Vika Moliden legs to the long Ekby Statlig shelf using a power drill. I randomly chose a spot to add the legs but made sure it was placed evenly between both ends. I didn't, however, use the screws provided with the legs because the screws where just a little longer than the thickness of the wood; instead, I bought shorter screws (less than an inch) for a couple of bucks at Home Depot.
Once the table was assembled, I stained the wood with Minwax Wood Stain in English Chestnut using a 3" synthetic brush. I didn't sand or prep the wood beforehand with the exception of quick clean with a wet cloth to make sure no dust or other particles were on it. I only did one coat but if you want to add more coats, it's probably a good idea to allow it to dry for an hour between coats.
After staining the wood, I cleaned the brush thoroughly to later use for adding polycrylic. If you want to reuse the brush, it is best to clean it soon after using to avoid the brush from drying up clumpy.
I let it dry over night then added only one coat of Minwax Polycrylic because I didn't want the table to be too shiny. Several hours later it was dry and ready to go.
See more of the console table.
Sunday, 29 May 2011
Materials: Ivar Utility Shelf, Pine 2x6x8 board, jigsaw, dark mahogany stain, silver spray paint, sandpaper (120 grit)
Description: I fell in love with an industrial metal and reclaimed wood shelf on the Hudson Good's website but I couldn't like the price (over $1000). When I saw a pair of Ikea Ivar shelves on craigslist for $30, I thought it was a good time to get my hack on and create a low budget knock-off. Here's what I did:
1) Use a damp cloth to wipe down the thrifted shelf because it had all kinds of cobwebs on it!
2)Use 120 grit sandpaper to do a light sanding of the boards. (It probably would have been easier to take it apart to sand, but I didn't because I'm lazy.)
3) Wipe it down with a damp rag to remove all the grit from the sandpaper and let it dry for an hour or so.
4) Spray it with a silver metallic spray paint. I originally used a galvanized steel spray paint I found at Home Depot, but I didn't like the final color, so I ended up brushing on a metallic silver craft paint over the top to get the color just right.
5) Let the shelf dry overnight. This is a good time to work on the boards.
6) Measure the shelves and cut the pine board to size. My handy husband did this part using a jig-saw. Remember to measure twice BEFORE you cut. (Hubby didn't do this and one of the boards was a little off but that was okay cause we hid it on top!)
7) Lightly sand the cut boards until the edges and all sides are smooth. Wipe with a damp towel to remove the grit. Allow the board to dry before starting the stain. (I waited about 10 minutes because I'm impatient!)
8) Read the instructions on the stain (or wing it, which is what I did!) and then apply. I used a wipe on poly stain that had a sealant built in because (again), I'm lazy. Dipped my rag into the stain and wiped on to the board as though I were painting. You will need to do little sections at a time to get an even application.
9) Leave the stain on for a few minutes and then wipe using a fresh rag. Wipe a little corner at first to see if it's as dark as you want. I wanted mine very dark, so I let it stay on for five minutes and then reapplied to each board a second time.
10) Keep going until all of your boards are finished on on the top and the four sides. Let it dry for 20 minutes or so and then flip the board to also stain the bottom. (You could probably skip this part but I'm anal and didn't want raw wood showing through the slats on the Ivar shelves.)
11) When the boards are dry, position them on your shelves and then secure in place. Hubby used nails but you could use wood glue. If you do use wood glue, make sure you clamp each shelf to get a strong bond while it's drying.
Total cost for this knock-off was $40!
See more of the Ivar Reclaimed Industrial Knock-out.
~ Shauntelle @ A Beautiful Abode, Atlanta, Georgia
- Cyril computer cabinet for the iMac: It's a pity the Cyril is discontinued. It is such a good looking compact work station. Here's one modified to fit the iMac's rather large monitor.
- Vintage mirrored luxe Lack coffee table: Mirror, mirror on my coffee table. Glam up your living room with this mirror table.
- Billy doors room divider: Need a room divider? Here's a simple solution using Billy doors with free frosted glass thrown in.
Saturday, 28 May 2011
Materials: Lack 43" and 74" Shelves
Description: I wanted an open library to house a lot of books and have room for art exhibition as well so I started researching LACK shelves. Reviews were mixed as to amount of weight they can handle so I determined I had to attach to minimum of two studs. US studs are 16" apart and on the 74" shelves, there are NO multiples of 16" from any other holes so I
1) confirmed stud location on the wall (and distance between)
2) measured and marked future holes on the rails which I then drilled.
3) Attached rails to studs.
For most cases I was able to hit 3 studs on both lengths of shelves. I'm really satisfied with the results though I might have to add the occasional L-Bracket for some of the shorter shelves that want to dip downwards somewhat. I'm still picking paintings and statuary for the open spaces in the design.
~ Amy S, Portland, OR USA
Materials: Lansa Handle (21 7/8") $9.99, BLANDA BLANK Serving bowl(5"), Drill, Drill bits, screwdriver, pliers $2.99
Description: Start by drilling drainage holes in the bottom of the bowl.
Then drill a hole in the top just below the rim. In order to use the screws that come with the handle you will have to shorten it with the clipping blades on your pliers.
Thread the screw thru the hole below the rim of the bowl, then the extender piece then into the handle as far as it will go. Mark the screw at the excess point. Disassemble and cut the screw, you may have to make small nips to the tip of the screw to get a clean tip to thread into the handle's hole.
Reassemble if the tilt of the bowl bothers you you can insert a shim below the screw (small piece of wire, plastic etc.) however this will cause a small gap where the horizontal arm meets the bowl. I left my as is.
Insert into the ground, fill with bird seed and enjoy your new best friends as they come to visit!
Materials: TULLERO, power drill, circular saw, 90 degree clamps, bar clamps
Description: I used some of the spare parts to rebuild one of the sets. As I was trying to stuff the remaining wreckage into a trashcan, I noticed how much (mostly) intact lumber I had left. So a few hours and a lot of sweat later, I had an outdoor coffee table. I had previously painted the chairs and bench due to some ugly sun/water damage on the wood, the table had not had any major work done - all the blue pieces were once part of the chairs or bench, and the brown were once a table. The whole thing will be polyurethane coated to showcase the weathering of the wood and paint as well as some damage from the tree. With a full, undamaged set, this could easily be turned into a normal height table - I just did not have the lumber to do it.
1) Take apart all the pieces of furniture. Save all the screws.
2) Lay out the long pieces from the bench and table to make an approximately square configuration. Depending on your asthetic taste, you may want to trim these pieces to the same length as I did.
3) Screw the long pieces from the seat of the bench into the under surface of the long pieces on either end. I put a third across the middle to take out some warp in some of the wood. If you overtighten the screws will stick through the surface of your tabletop.
4) Use two boards from the seat or back of the chairs to form a "L" shape along their length (I used 90 degree clamps and a few bar clamps to glue these rather than using screws, but screws should work. Repeat to form 4, these become the legs of the table.
5) Attach the legs through the table top using screw.
6) If you have some extra pieces you can use them as I did to form a lip around the edge
First picture shows nearly finished table, clamps still on trim. Second picture shows the same with the repaired but unmodified table from the original set.
~ J Ackerman
Friday, 27 May 2011
|photo courtesy of www.casasugar.com|
Materials: RIBBA picture ledge, DROPPAR spice jars
Description: I discovered this while Googling around this morning. It's a simple, but very effective hack to create a minimalist spice rack with a cleverly stenciled RIBBA picture ledge.
Makes me wish I had some wallspace where in my kitchen I could do this same thing!
See more of the Ribba picture ledge spice rack.
~ submitted by Rob O., Odessa, TX
Materials: Stranne Standard Light,Thin card, scissors, glue and punch
Description: Old lights remodelled into a flower light. WIP at the moment. Thin card layered flowers cut from hand and then added to each of the tiny lights. Remove the bulb push on the flower and then screw the bulb back into the holder. Can't be too thick as the bulb won't go back on and connect.
See more of the flower light.
~ Suz, Shropshire UK
Materials: Gorm shelf, racks, Trofast storage boxes, screws, L brackets, etc.
Description: We needed a sewing table and a place to use our laptops in the study room. Popped by Ikea and got a sudden inspiration with Gorm Shelves.
The table top would be made by joined 2 pieces of 83cm by 50 cm gorm shelves. (Have to remove the plastic at the side)
Table legs at 2 sides:
- 1. An L shaped table leg form by 2 gorm shelves.
- 2. A set of drawers using Trofast drawers and Gorm shelves as the structure.
1. Join up the L shaped table legs, fairly easy by joining the 2 gorm shelves with L brackets.
2. Fix the L shaped table leg to one side of the Gorm table top.
3. Fix up the Gorm shelves to form the structure for Trofast boxes. We had extra slides from our Trofast boxes. Quite some trial and error here.
4. Join up the drawers above to the other side of the Gorm table using L brackets.
5. Join up the 2 sides of the Gorm table top. (See pic). Further strengthen it with 2 extension Gorm post.
6. Painted the top white and there u go!
See more of their home renovation.
~ Gim and Elsie, Singapore
Thursday, 26 May 2011
Materials: Expedit Bookcase (White), Besta Vara Door (Walnut Effect), Capita Legs 4" & 6", Orgel Pendant Lamp Shade, Hemma Cord Set, Lerberg CD/DVD Wall Racks
Description: Well, this project is actually for my dad but it is my first IKEA Hack. He has a large collection of vinyl albums, CD's, and even tapes ::scoff:: My parents have had this "den" junked up with stuff for a couple years now and I thought I'd get them jump started on cleaning it up.
I DID borrow this hack from a previous stereo cabinet hack from a few years ago but added a bit more to it.
I started with an Expedit Bookcase, I took 4" Capita legs and attached 6 to the bottom of it. I then took a Besta Vara door, which was the perfect measurement to the depth of the bookcase and length of equipment that was to be stored on it, and I mounted it to the top of the bookcase with 6" Capita legs and 3M Exterior Heavy-duty Double-sided tape. You can find that at most home improvement stores. It's the gray kind that's a bit stretchy...it's easy to remove and it won't damage the laminate. From there is was a matter of finishing touches. I added the Orgel hanging lamp to brighten it up and Lerberg racks on the wall for cd storage and an art effect.
I apologize for the unfinished paint job at the base of the wall and trim. It's all gonna be white to match the crown moulding my brother-in-law and I installed this past weekend. Added a bit of cool artwork and accessories to make the whole thing look retro!
~ Jeremy, Tennessee
Materials: BLANKEN, plastic bags, scissors
Description: I like the BLANKEN shower caddy but somehow all my stuff falls out of it, when I shower.
To solve this problem I grabbed some white plastic bags and cut them in stripes. I wrapped the plastic "yarn" around the caddy and now everything stays in place. Super simple hack.
See more of the Blanken shower caddy hack.
~ Gerry, Kiel, Germany